Bulgaria, the Underrated Eastern European Republic



Hungary has its goulash. Romania has its girl gymnasts and Croatia has that hot Dr. Goran Unpronounceable-last-name on ER. Whither, then, the humble neighbor to the south and east, Bulgaria?





"I'd like to exchange these Bulgarian leva for dollars."

The two currency exchange clerks met my request with blank stares, like they were expecting me to yank a goat out of my wallet or something. It was then that I realized the misperceptions - or a lack of perception altogether - that exist in the U.S. about this country of 7 million.

What many people don't realize (and I wouldn't either, if I didn't have family living there whom I just visited) - Bulgaria combines the best of the regions it unites.

- Mediterranean food and climate: Shopska salad, cheese, mushrooms, olives as big as nectarines...

- European cafe culture: Any time of day or night, where there's a table, chairs and a bottle of wine, people are gathered talking, laughing, playing chess.



- Old-world history: And this is really old-world, as in churches in the middle of Sofia that date back to 800 A.D. and neighbors including Turkey and the former stomping grounds of Alexander the Great (ironically just popped up on Netflix - not one of Oliver Stone's finest moments). Not to mention the Eastern Orthodox art and mystique. Something about wafting incense and gold-leaf halos draws in even a heathen like me.

- Post-communist character: Vodka, chain-smoking, imposing Cyrillic signage and the undercurrent of organized crime - just enough of this remains to give the place flair, yet not so much as to creep out the sheltered Western capitalist.

SoCal: The Seven Wonders of Calabasas

Whither Calabasas, you may wonder? It's a small stretch of well-appointed earth tones in the San Fernando Valley - and also the site of last weekend's US premiere of Trade Routes, a very good indie film made in Bulgaria.

Wonder #1 of Calabasas: All the Bulgarian audience members huddled at the bus stop for a smoke break. Town ordinances restrict smoking "within 20 feet of any other live human being."

Wonder #2: The ten cop cars I saw during my 48 hours there, protecting this affluent community of 20,000+ from crime (and smokers!)

Wonder #3: Celebrity sightings! My dad personally spotted that tatooed guy from Blink 182 in a sweet 70s muscle car. (He's a hip guy, my dad.) According to Wikipedia, Calabasas is also home to Marcia Clark, Hobbit extraordinaire Sean Astin and the members of Incubus.

Wonder #4: Silicone implants that defy nature. Apparently now you can transform your rack into an immovable shelf, upon which you could successfully balance a parade of Hummel figures if so desired. Particularly attractive on women over 50.

Wonder #5: Strip malls that elevate the concept of strip malls. No dollar stores and head shops here - only boutiques with Creed perfume and $500 Belgian t-shirts.

Wonder #6: The tasteful outdoor stereo speaker. Sort of surreal to hear music emanate from a rock.

Wonder #7: All sunshine, all the time. Sooooo relaxing...I cannot imagine a drop of rain falling on this rarified oasis or a cloud sullying the view. The city council must have paid off Mother Nature well.